Mark Brog
Double Barreled Spitter - Bingin, 3 September 2019
Subscribe to Swellmagnet Action Films



HURRICANE WATCH: Lorena has lost some wind intensity due to interaction with the southwest coast of Mexico and is now a very strong tropical storm with maximum sustained winds of 70 mph. Lorena is centered about 15-20 miles to the west northwest of Cabo Corrientes, Mexico and is moving away from that area by about 10 mph. As the tropical storm moves farther away from land and over very warm water re-strengthening will start to occur later today or tonight and Lorena should be a hurricane once more by tomorrow morning.

Kiko, remains a strong tropical storm, is located about 1,285 miles to the west-southwest of the southern tip of Baja California and is tracking to the west away from land. Wind shear will inhibit the system from intensifying much over the next day or so, but this wind shear should relax and allow for some restrengthening Friday and into the weekend. In fact, the combination of lower shear and warmer waters should allow for Kiko to become a hurricane once again. Kiko is expected to move on a broad westerly course during the next several days with a jog to the northwest then back to the southwest giving the tropical cyclone a wavy forecast track.

Elsewhere, Tropical Storm Mario is well to the southwest of the Mexican coast, about 455 south-southwest of the southern tip of Baja California. Due to interaction with Lorena and some vertical wind shear the tropical storm will not have much of a chance to strengthen during the next couple of days. If it can pull away from Lorena or if Lorena weakens due to land interaction with Baja California Mario might still have some chance to intensify before it starts to move over colder water Sunday. Once it does move over colder water Mario will weaken quickly and should degenerate into a non tropical low pressure area sometime Monday of early next week.

In the central Pacific, there are a few weak disturbances across the basin. However, none of them are expected to develop as they encounter environmental conditions not favorable for tropical development. None of these features are expected to impact Hawaii.


For Friday morning we’ll see waist high + wind peaks out of the NW for the better West facing breaks from 310 degrees and 10-11 second intervals.

2019-09-18 Wed 05:43 AM 1.73 feet Low Tide
2019-09-18 Wed 06:39 AM Sunrise
2019-09-18 Wed 10:37 AM Moonset
2019-09-18 Wed 12:02 PM 4.97 feet High Tide
2019-09-18 Wed 06:43 PM 1.36 feet Low Tide
2019-09-18 Wed 06:56 PM Sunset
2019-09-18 Wed 09:44 PM Moonrise

The conditions look okay with variable 1-5 MPH winds until noon, and then 9-11 MPH out of the SW in the afternoon. The air temp tops out at 75 degrees.

For Saturday morning we’ll see a slight increase out of the SW with waist high + sets from 210 degrees with 17-18 second intervals slowly filling in throughout the day.

NW wind swell will remain in the waist high zone from that steep 310 degree angle and 9-10 second intervals.

2019-09-21 Sat 04:27 AM 3.09 feet High Tide
2019-09-21 Sat 06:41 AM Sunrise
2019-09-21 Sat 07:18 AM 2.96 feet Low Tide
2019-09-21 Sat 01:34 PM Moonset
2019-09-21 Sat 02:35 PM 4.81 feet High Tide
2019-09-21 Sat 06:52 PM Sunset
2019-09-21 Sat 07:43 PM Last Quarter
2019-09-21 Sat 10:50 PM 1.07 feet Low Tide
2019-09-21 Sat 11:51 PM Moonrise

The conditions look fair with variable 1-4 MPH winds until 12:00PM and then 6-9 MPH out of the SW in the afternoon. The air temp tops out at 77 degrees.

For Sunday morning we will see waist to chest high sets out of the SW from 210 degrees and 16 second intervals. Some of the top South facing breaks may see some larger sets.

Smallish NW wind swell will remain in the mix.

2019-09-22 Sun 06:28 AM 3.37 feet High Tide
2019-09-22 Sun 06:42 AM Sunrise
2019-09-22 Sun 09:28 AM 3.20 feet Low Tide
2019-09-22 Sun 02:33 PM Moonset
2019-09-22 Sun 04:05 PM 4.95 feet High Tide
2019-09-22 Sun 06:50 PM Sunset

The conditions look pretty good with variable, 1-4 MPH winds out of the SW until 12:00PM and then 6-8 MPH out of the SW in the afternoon. The air temp tops out at 79 degrees.

For Monday morning we will see that SW energy hold with waist to chest high + sets from 210 degrees.

We’re looking to see a bump in size for the West facing breaks as some slightly larger, waist to maybe chest high wind peaks rolls in from 310 degrees with 10-11 second intervals.

2019-09-16 Mon 04:57 AM 0.95 feet Low Tide
2019-09-16 Mon 06:37 AM Sunrise
2019-09-16 Mon 08:45 AM Moonset
2019-09-16 Mon 11:08 AM 4.97 feet High Tide
2019-09-16 Mon 05:15 PM 1.26 feet Low Tide
2019-09-16 Mon 06:59 PM Sunset
2019-09-16 Mon 08:41 PM Moonrise
2019-09-16 Mon 11:18 PM 4.65 feet High Tide

The conditions look fair with variable 1-3 MPH winds until noon and then 7-9 MPH out of the SW in the afternoon. The air temp tops out at 77 degrees.

For Tuesday morning we will see the SW on the decline with less consistent waist high + sets and the NW wind swell will continue to dish up waist to chest high wind peaks for the better West facing beaches.

2019-09-17 Tue 05:20 AM 1.32 feet Low Tide
2019-09-17 Tue 06:38 AM Sunrise
2019-09-17 Tue 09:40 AM Moonset
2019-09-17 Tue 11:34 AM 4.99 feet High Tide
2019-09-17 Tue 05:55 PM 1.29 feet Low Tide
2019-09-17 Tue 06:57 PM Sunset
2019-09-17 Tue 09:11 PM Moonrise
2019-09-17 Tue 11:57 PM 4.19 feet High Tide

The conditions look okay with 1-4 MPH winds, out of the W/SW until noon, and then 8-11 MPH out of the SW in the afternoon. The air temp holds at 77 degrees.

Water temps are as follows, (day of 4CAST update), Malibu 64 Santa Monica 70 South Bay 73, Huntington 69, Newport 73 .

The next 4Cast will be updated on Tuesday afternoon.

ABOUT THE SWELLMAGNET FORECAST – One of the most exciting–and yet most challenging–aspects of surfing is the sheer variety of waves and weather conditions that affect the entire surfing experience. Any surfer who is interested in going beyond the most basic level of surfing will have to develop the ability to interpret waves and environmental conditions. This is important for ensuring both a safe and enjoyable experience.

The main difficulty lies in predicting how exactly the ocean and the environment will behave at any given time. One day, you could be riding four-footers all day and the next, you might be facing a glasslike surface with nary a ripple. Conditions can change drastically from day-to-day and even within the space of a couple of hours. To avoid wasted time and unproductive trips to the surf, it is essential to have access to reliable information on surf conditions.

Sites such as offer up-to-the-minute surf reports that are essential to all California surfers. The company relies on an extensive network of surf cams and surf experts in order to monitor the precise surf conditions on any given day. All information is collated and analyzed by qualified surf specialists, with the resulting data being provided to the public via the Swellmagnet site.

Swellmagnet provides some of the best surf reports in the industry, with accurate and verifiable results gathered via an innovative system of surf condition monitors and detectors. Expert surf analysis is provided by the company’s team of highly experienced specialists, each with long years of experience monitoring and actually experiencing the full range of surf conditions. This combination of state-of-the-art technology and extensive practical experience ensures the highest quality and most accurate surf reports available.

For surfers who wish to take full advantage of the best that the California coast has to offer, the services provided by Swellmagnet are essential.

This Surf Forecast is brought to you by Anderson Surfboards!

1 2 3 1,406

Follow Swellmagnet


Mahattan Beach Shot
Back to Top